Get your flock

Find healthy birds without guessing

Check the rules, pick a flock size, choose chicks or pullets, and buy from a clean source. Bring birds home after your setup is ready.

Step 1: Make sure chickens are legal where you live

Before you order a single chick, find your local rules. Backyard chickens are allowed in many US cities, but almost always with conditions. Common rules include:

  • A flock limit. In the cities we have checked so far, limits for a typical home range from 4 to 8 hens, with a few allowing more under a bigger permit.
  • No roosters.
  • A permit or license, sometimes with a yearly renewal and a fee.
  • Coop setbacks from neighboring homes or lot lines, and no coops in front yards.
  • Neighbor notification or consent, an inspection, or a site plan drawing.
  • In Wisconsin, state livestock premises registration, which many cities require before issuing a chicken license.

Start with our local law finder, which has verified summaries for a growing list of cities and builds official-source searches for everywhere else. Also check HOA rules and your lease if you rent.

Step 2: Decide how many chickens

Chickens are flock animals and should not live alone. Three is a sensible minimum, so if you lose one the others still have company. For most families, three to six hens is the sweet spot: enough eggs to share, a manageable amount of chores, and a coop that fits a normal backyard.

  • Stay under your legal limit. If your city allows four, plan for four, not "four plus a spare."
  • Size the coop to the flock, not the other way around. Plan about 4 square feet of coop and 10 square feet of run per standard hen (housing guide).
  • Expect some chick losses or mis-sexed birds. If your limit is tight, starting with pullets avoids surprise roosters.

Step 3: Chicks, pullets, or adult hens?

General tradeoffs. Availability and prices vary by region and season.
OptionUpsideDownsideGood for
Day-old chicksCheapest per bird, widest breed choice, very friendly if handled oftenNeed a brooder and heat for about 6 to 8 weeks; months before eggs; may include a mis-sexed roosterFamilies who want the full experience and have spring time indoors
Started pulletsPast the fragile chick stage, often closer to laying, easier to confirm they are hensCosts more per bird, fewer breed choicesBeginners who want eggs sooner and less setup
Adult hensEggs right away, sometimes free from rehomingUnknown age and health history; can bring disease into an existing flockPeople with a vet contact and a plan to quarantine

Brooder setup for chicks

Chicks cannot keep themselves warm for their first several weeks. A brooder is a warm, safe, draft-free box where they live until they are feathered out.

  1. Box: a large plastic tote, stock tank, or cardboard box with tall sides. Give at least half a square foot per chick at first, and more as they grow fast over the next few weeks.
  2. Bedding: pine shavings. Cover them with paper towels for the first few days so chicks learn what feed is. Avoid slick newspaper and cedar shavings.
  3. Heat: a brooder heat plate is the safer choice. If you use a heat lamp, secure it with a chain or clamp so it cannot fall, keep it well away from bedding and walls, and never rely on the cord to hold it.
  4. Temperature: start around 95°F at chick level the first week, then lower about 5°F each week until they are feathered or the brooder matches room temperature.
  5. Feed and water: chick starter in a chick feeder, and a chick waterer with a shallow lip. Dip each chick's beak in the water when they arrive.
  6. Set it up the day before so the temperature is steady when chicks arrive.

Watch the chicks, not just the thermometer. Huddled under the heat and peeping loudly means too cold. Spread far from the heat with beaks open means too hot. Spread out evenly, eating, and napping means just right.

Check each chick's vent daily the first week for pasty butt, where droppings dry and block the vent. Gently clean it with warm water. Most chicks move to the coop around 6 to 8 weeks, once fully feathered and the weather is mild. Wash hands after handling chicks, and keep them out of kitchens and away from children's faces.

Step 4: Where to get healthy birds

Hatcheries

Mail-order chicks shipped in spring. Wide breed selection, sexed pullets available. Some have minimum orders to keep chicks warm in shipping. Look for hatcheries that participate in the National Poultry Improvement Plan (NPIP).

Feed and farm stores

Many hold spring "chick days" with chicks from hatcheries. Easy for small numbers. Ask which hatchery they use and whether chicks were vaccinated for Marek's disease.

Local breeders and farms

Often the best source for started pullets. Ask to see their flock and setup. A clean, calm setup is a good sign.

Poultry clubs and 4-H

Good for advice and local leads. Your county extension office can point you to them.

Beginners should be cautious with poultry swaps, auctions, and free birds from unknown flocks. Disease spreads easily when birds from many places mix. If you do bring in adult birds, keep them separate for about 30 days. See biosecurity basics.

Questions to ask any seller

  • How old are the birds, and are they sexed? What happens if a "pullet" turns out to be a rooster?
  • Were they vaccinated for Marek's disease or coccidiosis?
  • Is the flock NPIP-tested, or tested for other diseases?
  • What feed are they on now?
  • Have there been any recent illnesses or deaths in the flock?

Roosters, noise, and neighbors

You do not need a rooster for eggs. Hens lay eggs without one. A rooster is only needed for fertile eggs to hatch chicks.

Roosters crow, and not just at sunrise. They can crow at any time of day or night. Many cities ban roosters for exactly that reason, and even where they are allowed, crowing can become a nuisance complaint. Hens are much quieter, though they do make an "egg song" after laying and will fuss if a predator is around.

Staying on good terms with neighbors

  • Tell your neighbors before the birds arrive, even if your city does not require it.
  • Place the coop away from their windows and patios when you can.
  • Keep it clean. Odor and flies come from wet bedding and manure, not from chickens themselves.
  • Store feed in sealed bins so you do not attract rodents to the neighborhood.
  • Keep birds in your yard. Chickens in a neighbor's garden is a fast way to lose goodwill.
  • Share eggs if your local rules allow it. It helps.

Use our flock sourcing service

If you want help, we can look for beginner-friendly birds near you and point you toward practical options. The goal is simple: healthy hens that fit your yard, rules, and setup.

Bring birds home after setup

Have the coop, run, feed, water, bedding, and local approval ready first. Birds are easy when the system is ready before they arrive. Print the First-Year Starter Checklist to keep track.

Frequently asked questions

Is it legal to keep chickens where I live?

It depends on your city, village, or county. Many US cities allow a small number of hens with a permit, ban roosters, and set coop setbacks. Check our local law finder and confirm with your city or county office before buying birds.

How many chickens should a beginner get?

Three to six hens is a good start for most families, as long as it is within your local limit. Chickens are social, so keep at least three if you can.

Should I start with chicks or pullets?

Chicks are cheaper per bird and very friendly but need a heated brooder for about 6 to 8 weeks and take months to lay. Started pullets cost more but are past the fragile stage and lay sooner. Pullets are easier if your city has a tight limit or bans roosters.

What temperature should a chick brooder be?

Around 95°F at chick level the first week, then about 5°F lower each week until chicks are feathered or the brooder matches room temperature. Watch chick behavior to fine-tune it.

Do I need a rooster to get eggs?

No. Hens lay eggs without a rooster. You only need a rooster for fertile eggs to hatch, and many cities do not allow roosters.

Where should I buy chickens?

NPIP-participating hatcheries, feed stores that order from hatcheries, and reputable local breeders are the safest sources. Be careful with swaps, auctions, and birds from unknown flocks, and quarantine any adult birds for about 30 days.